80s 90s Facing Beauties

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Few days ago i visited the two fashion exhibitions at the Museum of Rimini: Bianca e Blu (I told you about it here) and 80s 90s Facing Beauties, Italian fashion and Japanese fashion at a glance. As I mentioned in a comment, I liked more the second one. That was because in the new wing of the museum there was no smell of mold, because the snooty keeper (who has prevented me from taking pictures) didn’t follow me or because the set up was really catchy, I leave it to you to decide.
The exhibition aims to be a window on the aesthetics and the style of Italian and Japanese fashion systems during the 80s and 90s, through a selection of prêt-à-porter garments by some of the most famous designers protagonists of these two decades.
The path takes you through the focal points that have radically marked the fashion scene and fashion culture, showing similarities between Italian and Japanese designers, innovators and precursors, which represent the increasingly strong rejection to the rules and constraints of the Parisian couture. The deconstruction by Armani and Miyake (whose splendid creation opens the show), Italian color geometricisms and Japanese Post-atomic fashion, the feminisation of male new era: these are the themes analyzed, which come to life in the labyrinthine set-up.
The room dedicated to Romeo Gigli is the one I liked the most: in contrast with contemporary models, he gave voice to the need of intimacy of the woman who was looking for elegance without fuss, distinct from narcissism and ostentation typically 80s. Gigli’s clothes reshape the female figure, gently wrapping it, without squeezing and showing it off. The shapes are clearly influenced by the East, as well as fabrics. From maximalism to 90s’ minimalism. Gigli is the designer of the contamination, of the West that meets the East. Stunning conclusion of the physical and thematic path proposed.

Alcuni giorni fa ho visitato le due mostre di moda al Museo di Rimini: Bianca e Blu (di cui vi ho parlato qui) e 80s 90s Facing Beauties, Italian fashion and Japanese fashion at a glance. Come ho già accennato in un commento, ho apprezzato maggiormente la seconda. Che sia stato perché nell’ala nuova del museo non c’era puzza di muffa, perché la sorvegliante spocchiosa (che mi ha impedito di fare foto) non mi ha seguita o perché l’allestimento era veramente accattivante, lo lascio decidere a voi.

La mostra vuole essere una finestra sull’estetica e lo stile dei sistemi moda Italiano e Giapponese durante gli anni ’80 e ’90, attraverso una selezione di capi prêt-à-porter di alcuni tra i più noti designers protagonisti di queste due decadi.

Il percorso si snoda toccando i punti focali che hanno radicalmente segnato il panorama della moda e della sua cultura, mostrando affinità tra i designer Italiani e Giapponesi, precursori e innovatori, che rappresentano il rifiuto sempre più forte verso le regole e le imposizioni della couture Parigina.

La decostruzione di Armani e Miyake (la cui splendida creazione apre la mostra), geometrismi cromatici Italiani e moda Postatomica Giapponese, la nuova era di femminilizzazione del maschio: sono questi i temi analizzati, che prendono vita nel labirintico allestimento.

Issey Miyake s/s 1995, Ph. Giulia Ripalti from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook fanpage

Issey Miyake s/s 1995, Ph. Giulia Ripalti from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook fanpage

La sala dedicata a Romeo Gigli è quella che ho apprezzato di più: in controtendenza rispetto ai modelli contemporanei, da voce al bisogno di intimismo della donna che ricerca un’eleganza senza clamore, distinta dal narcisismo e dall’ostentazione tipicamente anni ’80. Gli abiti di Gigli ridisegnano la figura femminile, la avvolgono dolcemente, senza strizzarla ed esibirla. Le forme sono di chiara influenza orientale, così come i tessuti. Dal massimalismo ci si avvia al minimalismo anni ’90. Gigli è lo stilista della contaminazione, dell’Occidente che incontra l’Oriente. Splendida conclusione del percorso fisico e tematico proposto.

Rebecca

Ph. Genny Montebelli from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook Fanpage

Ph. Genny Montebelli from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook Fanpage

Ph. Giulia Ripalti from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook Fanpage

Ph. Giulia Ripalti from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook Fanpage

Ph. Giulia Ripalti from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook Fanpage

Ph. Giulia Ripalti from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook Fanpage

Ph. Giulia Ripalti from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook Fanpage

Ph. Giulia Ripalti from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook Fanpage

Romeo Gigli room, Ph. Giulia Ripalti from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook Fanpage

Romeo Gigli room, Ph. Giulia Ripalti from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook Fanpage

Versace room, Ph. Giulia Ripalti from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook Fanpage

Versace room, Ph. Giulia Ripalti from 80s 90s Facing Beauties Facebook Fanpage

Exhibit curated by Simona Segre Reinach in collaboration with students in the BA and MA degree program in Fashion at the University of Bologna, Rimini Campus.

Mostra curata da Simona Segre Reinach in collaborazione con gli studenti della Triennale e Magistrale in Moda dell’Università di Bologna, Campus Rimini.

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